Tuscany · food wine

Tuscan Food Guide

Bistecca, pici, ribollita and the cucina povera that defines a region.

Tuscan food is the original cucina povera — peasant cooking elevated by remarkable ingredients. Bread without salt (because medieval salt was taxed), beans (because they are cheap and protein-dense), bistecca (because the Chianina cattle were here long before the steakhouse). Understanding the why makes every meal more interesting.

The dishes you have to try

Ribollita (twice-cooked bean and bread soup), pappa al pomodoro (tomato-bread stew), pici cacio e pepe (hand-rolled fat spaghetti), bistecca alla fiorentina (T-bone from Chianina cattle, very rare), lardo di Colonnata (cured pork fat aged in marble), cantucci dipped in Vin Santo.

Where to eat in Florence

Trattoria Mario for lunch (no bookings, queue early), Sostanza for the butter-chicken (Italian-style), Cibreo for the formal version of Tuscan cuisine, Trattoria Cammillo for old-Florence elegance, All'Antico Vinaio for the famous schiacciata street sandwich.

Markets and food shopping

Mercato Centrale in Florence (San Lorenzo, ground floor) for produce; the upstairs food hall for casual lunches. The weekly market in Greve in Chianti every Saturday, the truffle festival in San Miniato in November weekends, and the saffron harvest in San Gimignano in October.

At a glance

  • Bistecca alla fiorentina: ordered rare, never well-done
  • Pici: hand-rolled, paired with cinghiale (wild boar) ragù
  • Ribollita: best in winter, twice-cooked bean stew
  • Mercato Centrale Florence: produce + upstairs food hall
  • Cantucci + Vin Santo: the only acceptable dessert

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